Archive for the ‘Diamond Cut’ Category

The super ideal cut: Infinity Diamonds

September 21st, 2009

For those who understand more than the average about diamonds they will have heard of grading companies such as GIA and HRD.  And most people buying with knowledge of diamonds will insist on a certificate from one of these companies, as it provides some assurances on the qualities, and hence value of a diamond.   Some of the grading attributes are easy to understand, but others are more complex.

The most easy of all to understand is the carat, the weight of the diamond, it is unambiguous and a very key factor in a diamonds value.

Next is the colour, excluding the fancy colours (which have a rarity value) then most people can understand that the pure white diamond is of greater value then one with a very slight hint of yellow.  But now it gets a little difficult, identifying the difference between a D and E, or E and F, requires a very keen eye, it is very difficult for the casual observer to see the difference.

Next is clarity, everyone understands what ‘flawlwess’ means, but to understand and see the differences between clarity grades of VVS1, VVS2, etc, requires an even greater degree of skill.

Finally there is the cut, this is by far the most difficult attribute of a diamond to grade.  It is more than the proportions of cut, it relates to the size of each facet, the number of facets, and the angle of each facet.  For a given shape of diamond there is the perfect balance of cut, one that yields the greatest sparkle, the greatest amount of reflected light back to the naked eye.  The cut is, by far, the most difficult of all to measure.

So this is where the brand Infinity comes into its own.  As implied by the name, the diamond is cut to precise proportions, precisely cut facets, overall creating the maximum of internally reflected light, giving the diamond an almost perfect sparkle.

Infinity is in effect the premium of cut grades, a diamond with the Infinity brand is the ultimate in grading for the cut of a diamond.

Pear Cut Diamond

September 3rd, 2009
Pear Cut Diamond

Pear Cut Diamond

The first pear cut diamond was created in the year 1458 by a Flemish cutter/polisher Lodewyk van Berquem of Brugge.   The pear is a fascinating shape, often referred to as one of the “fancy shapes” along with Marquise, Heart, Oval, and others. 

The actual cut of the pear shape diamond can vary considerably, often the cut will take account of maximising the proportions available within the limits set by the rough diamond from which it is cut.  The more popular ratio of length to width (the aspect ratio)is around 1.5 to 1, giving the cut a full but clear pear shape profile.

To give the pear its “sparkle”, that all important factor for all diamonds, it will normally have 58 facets.  Each of the facets effectively acts as a mirror helping to reflect light internally within the diamond and back toward the eye.  The actual cut proportions are key to any diamond’s overall sparkle, the angle of each facet and its size work together to create the ideal cut pear diamond.

Sometimes, at certain angles, when looking at the pear diamond (and other fancy shapes) a darker shadow maybe seen within, this is quite normal and is referred to as the “bowtie effect”.

Famous people who have purchased a pear shape diamond include Halle Berry (30 ct pear pendant) and Jessica Simpson (4 ct pear engagement ring)

Emerald Cut Diamond

August 17th, 2009
Emerald Cut Diamond

Emerald Cut Diamond

The emerald cut was, perhaps not surprisingly, initially developed for cutting emeralds and not diamonds. 

The emerald cut is characterised by its stepped, rectangular cut (although it can be more square) and the cropped corners.  The cut was found to be suitable for the Emerald which had more tendency to chip at the edges and corners due to the imperfections occurring naturally within its structure.

For a diamond to be an “emerald cut” it needs to have a higher level of clarity, simply because of the large facets exposing the inner diamond with less reflected light than more traditional cuts (e.g. the round or brilliant cut).

The most classical of emerald cuts has a proportion of around 1.3 to 1.4 in length to width.  Due to the wide open facets a high quality diamond, one  with colour grades D or E and with maybe VS1 or better clarity, produces an especially stunning emerald cut.  The picture shown above is an emerald cut of 7.56 carats, a superb example of just how beautiful this type of diamond cut can be.  But of course you will need substantial financial resources as high quality diamonds of this size are not cheap.

Such is the beauty of the large emerald cut diamond that it has been the choice of many high profile celebrities, here are just a few of them:

  • Camila Parker-Bowles
  • Sharon Stone
  • Jennifer Lopez
  • Paris Hilton
  • Grace Kelly

Cushion Cut Diamond

July 31st, 2009

 Cushion Cut Diamond

The Cushion Cut is also starting to grow in popularity.  The design has evolved from the Old Mine Cut of the 19th century, this cut had large deep facets and the more traditional Oval  Cut.  The Cushion Cut was also known as the “candlelight diamond”, when prior to the electric light the diamonds would sparkle in the presence of candle light.

The Cushion Cut, as with other fancy cut shapes, does not provide as much sparkle as the Round Brilliant Cut, but what you get is an individual diamond as this type of cut is much less common.

In terms of standards defining the Cushion Cut there is much more latitude enabling the cutter to cut into shapes ranging from square to rectangular, with varying table sizes.

When purchasing a Cushion Cut diamond it is very important that you get the right advice, ideally you should meet with a specialist who can advise on the various cut attributes and tailor these to the design of your jewellery.  Typically these specialists will source their diamonds direct form the cutters in Antwerp (where most of the world’s larger diamonds are cut.

If you are looking to purchase diamond jewellery then a good starting point would be the London-based office of Antwerp suppliers, bestdiamonds.co.uk and designsbyindigo.co.uk.

Asscher Cut Diamond

July 27th, 2009

Asscher Cut Diamond After reading this Asscher Cut Diamond post check out our blog page on where to buy diamonds and browse the amazing designs

The name “Asscher” came from the Asscher Brothers in Netherlands who came up with the design in 1902.  The cut they designed is similar to the Emerald cut but is more square in its design.  The Asscher cut is a square stepped cut with cropped corners.

The popularity of the Asscher cut has grown significantly since the 1990s having been popularised by celebrities. 

When selecting an Asscher cut diamond it is important to focus on the quality characteristics of the diamond.  As the diamond cut provides fewer facets it will tend to sparkle less than the round brilliant cut.  The large open table of the cut allows any imperfections within the diamond to be seen more easily, thus the Clarity of the diamond needs to be a key factor.

Another aspect of the Asscher Cut to consider is its proportions, the cut needs to help maximise the reflected light for optimum sparkle.  Some minimum cut proportions to consider are a depth of 65% to 73% and a table of 55% to 64%.

Apart from choosing the cut of the diamond you also need to consider the ring or other jewellery mounting.  The Asscher Cut will require (typically) a four pronged setting, one on each of the corners.  Due to the complexity of diamond settings it is best to meet with a specialist company that can source certified diamonds and provide a bespoke design service for the perfect diamond engagement ring.

If you are looking to purchase an Asscher Cut diamond we suggest bestdiamonds.co.uk or designsbyindigo.co.uk – London based suppliers of bespoke diamond jewellery at dicounted prices to high street jewellers.